KLR650_for_sale

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Left upper switch is a fan always on bypass. This was done using posi-taps and can be undone easily enough. Not the plug to the fan is slightly broken but hasn't been an issue in 10 years. The stock read leaked, was repair, and started to leak again. Replaced with Ebay made in China one. Lower left switch is for grip heaters. Upper right is for a head light kill. I should have done this using a relay but didn't. Lower right is a Powerlet outlet. There is a voltometer upper left.
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Left upper switch is a fan always on bypass. This was done using posi-taps and can be undone easily enough. Not the plug to the fan is slightly broken but hasn't been an issue in 10 years. The stock read leaked, was repair, and started to leak again. Replaced with Ebay made in China one. Lower left switch is for grip heaters. Upper right is for a head light kill. I should have done this using a relay but didn't. Lower right is a Powerlet outlet. There is a voltometer upper left.

  • Rotor pretty worn. Front brake requires rebuild but not necessary new pistons/seals. Definitely cleaning. Rim has a slight ding (not sharp) from rock. No issues with this in 10 years of riding with rim like that. Tires are old.
  • SW-Motech crash bars and plastic panels have had more and more interference over the years. There is a bit of foam between. The black is a wear point. The tape is reflective black but does cover a couple of nicks/scratches.
  • Note that the fuel pet!+$% needs a little gasket sealer or similar as it the metal to metal joint can drip. I have done this in the past. Needs to be refreshed. Scratches in stator cover are from extended shifter - no longer in use but I think that I have several in the bin somewhere.
  • Yes. The doohickey was replace and uses the torsion spring.
  • Lower gasket weep has never been an issue. It was likely cause in 2010 when the first 685 kit went in. This kit was poorly installed and started to cause issues in 2010 South America trip. It was reported to me that first mechanic may have pried something with a screw driver or like object. I haven't seen this. It was since replaced with a new cylinder sleeve by Dual Sport Plus. Not issues with new sleeve and 685 kit. DSP reported that extra gasket make was used to fill any gap. There have is at least one repaired thread on valve cover bolts. Also, attempted to repair the what I remember as the "deep hole" flaw there the stator cover was mis-manufactured in a way that allowed a started gear to drift sideways.
  • Drive sprockets seems to have some life left.
  • Side stand has a bit of extra lean to it. Repair may be to make the attaching hole in frame slightly bigger (i.e. next step up with SAE) and use a matching bolt in side stand. Side stand switch is probably dead. It was by-passed years ago permanently using a posi-tap.
  • Bit of rust. This is from sitting idle with a cover on it. Yes. The bike needs a good clean.
  • Stock shock. I used to run a lowered Ricor shock but it started to leak. The battery is an Odesy. The terminal wires were relocated to accommodate this battery by Dual Sport Plus. Never had an issue with the battery.
  • Rust from use. Heavily used Pelican cases are available. They work but I wouldn't considered them 100% waterproof any more.
  • Know issue with this specific fabric used by Corbin.
  • Probably can be repair by someone who works with leather. Undo the rivets/stables, sew up and cover with fresh piece of leather, the re-staple.
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  • Untitled photo
  • Note the broken plastic. I had repaired it fairly well once but it broke again. Not that the right mirror is replacement glass and not exactly the same as stock. The Pro-Taper grips are heated by Symtech heating elements.
  • Left upper switch is a fan always on bypass. This was done using posi-taps and can be undone easily enough. Not the plug to the fan is slightly broken but hasn't been an issue in 10 years. The stock read leaked, was repair, and started to leak again. Replaced with Ebay made in China one. Lower left switch is for grip heaters. Upper right is for a head light kill. I should have done this using a relay but didn't. Lower right is a Powerlet outlet. There is a voltometer upper left.
  • Note the new rad.
  • I should still have the plastic piece if you want to repair. Plastic repair kit? Acetone to melt a piece of green lego? Will never be perfect.
  • Signals are relocated for Happy Trail SU luggage rack. They have been cut and reconnected with posi-tap connectors. I wouldn't do this this way again and would buy the appropriate connector from somewhere like Eastern Beaver and do a factory wiring harness extension. Never been an issue. It is a solid connection.
  • Shinko 705 tires need replacing. Specifically because the rubber has off-gased and are now old and on their way to brittle. More than 5 years old meaning they have to go...
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